People who don't have an opinion on anything--folks who can't tell
you their favorite color, name their favorite politician, sing the
words to their favorite song, or come down hard on whether or not
they prefer women with long fingernails, even if they are artificial
(the nails, not the women) will tell you their favorite type of
chocolate immediately, just in case you have any on you. And asking
someone to name their preferred brand of chocolate when you don't
have any chocolate on your person at the time is a pretty dangerous
activity, along the lines of wearing a tight skirt with a split up
the side to a country-western bar on a Friday night when you're not
interested in dating.
In a world where most people think "arugula" is what the background
singers are chanting in "The Lion Sleeps Tonight," it's interesting
that chocolate remains a singular knowable and nameable food passion.
Children who haven't yet memorized their home address or last name
know how to differentiate between an Almond Joy and a Mounds bar.
Even when a lot of otherwise normally gifted folks spend part of
every day climbing up imaginary stairs or working up a sweat on what
at first glance appear to be giant pasta makers, the average American
loves his or her chocolate, despite the fact that one chocolate
sprinkle has as many calories as, say, a week's worth of tofu
casseroles.
And when I say that people "love" their chocolate, I am not being
hyperbolic. I am carefully using the word "love" in the same way it's
used in wedding vows and other sacred rituals, such as opera: We're
talking about devotion, loyalty, the acknowledgment of eccentric
tastes, and an overwhelming sense of connection to others in the same
state of mind.
This is because in the minds of many people, chocolate is associated
with, and almost as much fun as, sin. And not just any sin: It's up
there with really juicy sins like adultery and coveting goods. Why?
Because there's something selfish, extravagant, and messy about both
sin and chocolate. Neither is particularly good for you, but that
doesn't stop your appetites. Neither is something you ever need--but
you can want both so much you think about them until you can almost
taste them on your tongue, your mouth watering slightly at the very
idea They involve texture, taste, melting, not wanting to share, and
the necessity to clean up afterward. Often the aftermath involves
guilt, heightened sensitivity, and shame, as well as a deep sense of
a secret, very personal pleasure. Many people also feel a need to
hide the evidence but give themselves away by smiling a lot.
There is absolutely no use on this planet for one piece of chocolate,
or even two. Chocolate has to be consumed in relatively massive
quantities Because otherwise you're left with a sneaking sense of
deprivation that will cause you to search out lesser forms of
satisfaction, such as food, drink, or unsafe sex with strangers,
instead of allowing you the purity--the simple grace of your true
quest.
This theory was tested right in front of me at a wedding where the
couple, very cutely, had arranged for two-piece boxes of Godiva
wrapped with pretty white ribbons to be placed in front of every
guest's setting at dinner. You should have seen the guests loot and
steal these babies. It was like a bunch of 6-year-old stealth eaters
had emerged from underneath sophisticated adult veneers. Women were
shoving these boxes into tiny evening handbags, getting in as many as
12 at a time. Men were less concerned with the hunting-and-gathering,
delayed-gratification aspect, and ate the chocolates directly by
filling up their cheeks like gerbils. Elderly relatives were easy
targets, and their stuff was gone right away, although they did get
to keep the centerpieces.
The wedding couple should have known better; we were, after all,
their friends. They'd seen us grab for Easter eggs when we were kids,
clawing like guests on the Titanic grabbing for lifeboats. They saw
us hoard the pellets of foil-wrapped, unspeakably old chocolate over
and over again, hating the very idea that you couldn't have your
candy and eat it, which meant that you had to steal your brother's
candy and eat his, too.
We should not stint on chocolate, especially at this crucial time
when Most of us are so busy cutting all those other sins from our
lives. Better to abandon coveting and adultery, better to eschew
deceit and greed, better to forgo false idols than live on chocolate
substitutes or worse, deny ourselves any chocolate at all. Perhaps
permitting ourselves, without too much argument or reluctance, to
take pleasure in what is truly sweet will help us give up all those
other, more bitter indulgences.
Or maybe not, but imagine what fun it could be seeing whether it will
work.
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